| At one time, Sliema, the largest city in Malta, had | | | | The next night we moved in. We were grateful for |
| many very affordable guest houses. This was before | | | | our good health because the balky elevator chose |
| the "discovery" of Malta as a tourist destination. | | | | that night to groan a bit, then quit. Joey had a full |
| Unfortunately, guest houses have disappeared; the | | | | house so we got "a room with path" to the |
| tourism department does not think they contribute | | | | community bathroom. He promised us a better room |
| to a positive image of the island. I do. They are not | | | | for the next night. The first night's lodging was a |
| only considerably less expensive than most hotels, | | | | minimalist's dream: a bed, a tiny nightstand, a few |
| they are much more fun. | | | | drawers and a wooden wardrobe. But the bed was |
| We stumbled on to the Soleado Guest House on | | | | comfortable and we were pleased with our choice. |
| Ghar-id-Dud Street on our first trip to the island in | | | | True to his word, the next night we had a room with |
| 1994. The whole trip was something of an accident | | | | a private bath. We stayed there for the rest of the |
| because we parlayed a two-hundred-dollar round-trip | | | | trip. |
| fare to London with one to Malta for a similar price. | | | | The next day we had breakfast with the other |
| We didn't have much time to make sleeping | | | | guests. Along with our three new friends we met |
| accomodations and we reserved through the internet | | | | people from Great Britain, Australia, Germany, and |
| at a hotel in Qowra, at the northeastern end of the | | | | France. They filled us in on their favorite places to |
| island. It was nice, but too remote, and really not our | | | | see. Many had made yearly pilgrimages to stay at the |
| kind of place. Read: too expensive. | | | | guest house, visit the island, and renew acquaintances |
| We found another hotel on The Strand in Sliema and | | | | with Joey. We invited Dora, our British friend, to |
| made a one-night reservation. That evening we went | | | | accompany us on a day of sightseeing, and she |
| out to see the town and wandered into the Snuggy | | | | turned out to be a delightful companion; we |
| Pub (yes, that was the name) that was part of the | | | | exchanged Christmas cards for several years. Would |
| Soleado Guest House. It was loud and friendly and | | | | that have happened in a four-star? I had my first |
| everyone seemed to be having a great time. The | | | | experience with Maltese bread. Fantastic. (I later |
| walls were lined with photos of the bartender/hotel | | | | learned that the original starter for San Francisco |
| manager, Joey Bugeja, with guests. While we were | | | | sourdough bread came from Malta.) |
| sitting with our beers, a matronly, white-haired English | | | | I have stayed at the Soleado on my eight trips since. |
| lady came to our table and asked if we wanted | | | | The guest house became the setting for my novel, |
| some tea. She would make it for us. Who could | | | | The Cellini Masterpiece. Its name changed to the |
| resist? | | | | Bellestrado and Joey became Josefina, but if you |
| She disappeared and returned from the hotel kitchen | | | | read it, you'll find the bar and meet some guests a |
| with a tray with a teapot and three cups and sat | | | | bit like the real-life ones. I would recommend the |
| down with us. We found she was from York and a | | | | Soleado to anyone who plans to visit the island and |
| guest at the hotel. She introduced us to a Scottish | | | | prefers adventure to luxury. |
| couple. All three of them suggested we stay there. | | | | |